Jul 20, 2013

M2O: Day 8 and 9 Maliko runs..... Learning is not always easy....

Today is my first REST day since I arrived onto Maui.... I know I should have taken more but my mission has been to get out there on the water and practice in the bumps.... figure out the board, the water, some systems, and gain confidence in the Hawaiin waters, waters that are just soooooo different than back home. The support here and from friends back home have kept me motivated and positive as learning is not the easiest thing sometimes on our emotions.... I am used to be being one of the fastest and here in the bumps my lack of surfing and just water knowledge shows.... I am glad I am fit and I WANT this so am out there falling, getting up, falling, missing bumps, catching bumps and really trying to take in all the amazing advice I am given each day.
The mouth of the Maliko photo: Chikara Tsumura

photo: Chikara tsumura

Just leaving Maliko Gulch photo: Chikara

photo: Chikara

photo: Chikara

Thursday on the Maliko I will admit I cursed and yelled and sat on my board thinking WHAT AM I DOING HERE?!?!? I CAN't DO this.... I am idiot for thinking I can,...... why did I have to go an sign up for this stupid race.....
I fell a lot, I couldn't connect or even catch most of the glides and then to make it even worse I went way too far on the inside and it took forever for me to get to the Harbour mouth..... Oh Man, I was in a bad mood.... It was hard to pick myself up for a while there.... I just sat on the beach and just sat there staring out watching the ocean, hating it.... hahahaha... looking back I know I was being silly and really I was just learning out there...
 Steve wrote a great thing on my facebook "after observing me awhile, a local wise man on Maui said "hey bro, you gots to fall! don't fight it, that's how you will learn to ride".... remember you are paddling with the best of the best and they even fall... falling means you are pushing yourself to surf - which is what downwinding is, not paddling - no doubt you need rest too - like skiing the moguls too many days in a row  get rejuved and hit the water - when you fall, stop and look around and be amazed with 
where you are "THANKS Steve, so true....

I was pretty nervous to go out Friday, I didn't want to have another bad run.... I went out with Randy and Todd.... Randy stuck with me (he is way faster....) and helped me out with tips and encouragements and it helped! I had a much better run, and was starting to see the water and how it moves..... and infact connected some glides... it felt soooo much better. THANKS Randy!!!!!

Today is a rest day... Tomorrow we are all racing in the Maui Paddlebaord Championships which is the Maliko run.... I am excited to just be out there with the best of the best at downwinding...... its going to be quite the experience I think. Also, Andrew, my amazing hubby that I miss sooooooo much is arriving today!!!!!!! I can't wait for him to be here.

Here is a little clip about Molokai..... I still can't believe I will be out there.... doing this! Still feels like this unreachable dream... a dream I am currently living RIGHT NOW! Amazing.

THANK YOU: Werner paddles, Nikki Rekman Sales, Trident Performance Sports, Chacos, Ryders Eyewear, Laiph Clothing, Onit Pro

live, love, laugh,...DREAM!


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