Mar 22, 2013

Makin' Progress

one step at a time...

Today I saw more progress... In the morning I was mastering catching, gliding, and turning on the SIC 14 bullet.... this afternoon I was on Randy's 9.0 x 27 wave board and really got the hang of putting my weight on the front of the nose to catch the wave and then stepping back and putting weight on my back foot to turn into the face of the wave..I was even making little S shapes while riding the wave..... YAY! I did manage a total rookie mistake of not stopping at the end of a sweet glide 'cause I was in the flow and lovin it and managed a slow motion crash into another surfer.. luckily, it was slow, no damage was done and she was cool... haha.. I won't do it again though...

It's funny at home, I do a lot of exercise, sometimes by accident through commuting, work, and training... Here, I am paddling more than ever and am enjoying chillin' in between surf sessions... I must be getting used to the island life... It was really great to chill with Jeremy, Randy, and the girls on the porch in between sessions eating delicious snacks and chattin' SUP/surf talk...., I got to practice the Indo Board and the balance beam balance exercise... I am hoping to get a skateboard to practice the feel of surf turns and understand how to position my body and how to feel the pressure on my toes and heels.., Also an indo type board will be great for yet another way to practice my surfing balance... these will be great tools for me to use when I can't find bumps and waves...

for the love of waves....

live, love, laugh,...DREAM!
lina

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